How Rolo’s Hit the Ridgewood Sweet Spot With a Comfortable Neighborhood Canteen

Despite what some may consider ‘too many cooks in the kitchen,’ the trifecta of industry leaders––who all hail from one of New York’s most iconic restaurants, Gramercy Tavern–– Howard Kalachnikoff, Rafiq Salim, and Paul Wetzel, have proved that, together, they yield a recipe for success. With the ambition to launch an approachable, but elevated neighborhood bistro focused on wood-fired cookery and seasonal New American/European eats, the trio debuted Rolo’s during the pandemic in Ridgewood, Queens, bringing the neighborhood a high-quality option for simple, yet thoughtful cookery.

Despite all moving on from more formal dining backgrounds, the Rolo’s team wanted to offer a detail-oriented dining experience but “in a more neighborhood-oriented and casual setting,” explains Kalachnikoff. While the men scoured the city for the right plot of land, Kalachnikoff admits that they kept coming back to Ridgewood. “We really liked how the area felt so comfortable and family-oriented,” he explains, adding that they were all confident that their locals-focused restaurant would be well-received.

Claiming roughly 2,400 square feet with seats for 105 inside and another 45 on the restaurant’s patio, Rolo’s stands in for a prior medical office and artist’s studio. And while the restaurant is less than a year old, the trio wanted to build a place with patina, one that “felt like it could have been in the area for 20 years,” explains Kalachnikoff. Hence, they decorated the space with reclaimed oak and pine, anchoring the dining room with an open kitchen and central wood-burning oven, and blue leather banquettes. Flanking the kitchen is the bar room, where diners can dine or sign up for a mix of classic and tiki-leaning cocktails, sipped from the bar, or at one of the high or low lounge tables. As the team has echoed, they wanted to create a space that caters to everyone; for solo bar dwellers or families who choose tables––this is the ultimate locals’ spot.

While all three chefs collaborate on Rolo’s New American menu dashed with a heavy hand of Mediterranean influence, Wetzel helms the in-house charcuterie and meat curing program, which includes options like house-made mortadella and coppa. During the daytime these meats fortify sandwiches like a house-made smoked turkey option, while dinner service brings menu options like a cured meat plate.

“Our overall ambition is to create a gathering place that becomes part of the fabric of our neighborhood,” states Kalachnikoff, one that’s “centered around our simple and approachable food.” At Rolo’s the menu spans from a number of charcuterie and bread options, to cavatelli with corn and pecorino, to a cheeseburger, to a wood-fired branzino. There’s also an abundance of veggies on the menu, such a charred Italian red peppers, and crushed cucumbers with peanuts, mint, and celery. The team sources produce, dairy, and eggs from local purveyors as much as possible. Their pasture-raised beef hails from Upstate’s Rosenkrans Farms, while they collaborate with Brooklyn’s Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co. on seafood, such as their branzino that’s sustainably raised in Greece.

Kelly Mencin, another Gramercy Tavern alum, has been on the team since day one to helm bread and pastry operations, and she’s in charge of the wood-fired polenta bread, which patrons can order with olive oil and sea salt, with Calabrian chili butter, or with sesame and wild oregano. She’s also responsive for Rolo’s whole wheat sourdough, and a smattering of seasonal biscuits, tarts and crumbles, and the mascarpone-laced chocolate cake which one can order to close out a meal.

Of course, any neighborhood eatery needs a solid drinks program, and at Rolo’s, former Gramercy Tavern bar manager Ben Howell heads it up. In addition to a roster of around 100 small-production wines––most of which cost under $65 per bottle––Howell commands the list of “cocktails you actually want to drink,” as he describes them. With straight-forward names like a rye sour or banana daiquiri, he chose to highlight classics, with a keen eye toward rum.

“We think rum is an underappreciated spirit and presents a great value,” explains Howell, which lead the team toward the tropical tiki category of drams. “Tiki drinks aren’t always included in the canon of classics … but we think they should!” Ultimately, these traditionally festival vacation drinks commonly served with elaborate garnishes (Rolo’s takes a more restrained approach) offer the bar program a whimsical touch, while over-delivering on quality. Rather than using pre-made flavor mixes or canned/bottled fruit juices as hotels typically do, Rolo’s makes everything fresh. For example, to build their wildly popular spicy pineapple margarita, bartenders infuse Fresno chilis into tequila, and make the drink with agave nectar, and freshly pressed pineapple juice.

In a popular, ever-developing Queens borough rife with Italian pastries, Mexican taquerias, and Nepalese dumplings (among so many more global eats), it’s perhaps not surprising that the category of carefully made American cuisine has been largely overlooked. The Rolo’s team realized this, and seized an opportunity and a neighborhood they felt their efforts would be well-received. And so far, they’ve been right.